After stunning us with the 2023 SS* collection and 2023 FW* collection, AVAVAV’s creative director, Beate Karlsson, has presented us with another relatable and groundbreaking show.

In the debut runway, the 2023 SS collection, Karlsson surprised the viewers by having the models trip on purpose. With phrases like “Cash Cow” and “Filthy Rich” emblazoned on the outfits, Karlsson criticized the greed associated with money and fashion. Emphasizing sustainability and questioning what it means to be valuable, she uses the runway to depict her view on the superficiality of fashion.

Later, in the FW collection, instead of the models falling, the clothes themselves fell off. Following the theme of “fake it till you break it,” heels snapped and shirt sleeves ripped throughout the show. At the end of the show, after Karlsson thanked the audience and walked away, the set collapsed. The destruction of the clothes and set criticized the seriousness of luxury. As HypeBeast said, “there’s something very interesting about shame and what happens when we are vulnerable.”

Once again, continuing with a similar satirical theme, Karlsson excellently delivered the message of the 2024 SS collection: “No Time to Design, No Time to Explain, No Time to Review.” The collection, just as the previous ones, was revealed at Milan Fashion week. On September 24, 2023, many eagerly waited with high expectations that Karlsson undeniably surpassed.

To indicate the beginning of the show, staff members quickly stuck papers on a wall that had AVAVAV scribbled on them. Right after, a model entered – or was pushed – onto the runway. Appearing stressed and unprepared, she rushed backstage before even walking the full catwalk. The next model, with a shirt that read “add back?!” quickly walked onto the runway. When he turned around, it was revealed to the audience that his shirt didn’t have a back.

Mimicking the same stressed demeanor as the first model, many came onto the runway. Some of the models arrived in a state of disarray, featuring messy hair and teary makeup. Others had clothes on backwards or were wearing duct tape. A few standouts were a model in an oversized suit made solely of yellow post-its and another in foam blocks with “add shape” written on them.

Though the outfits of the night brought amusement to the audience, they also tugged at an important and oft-disregarded issue: the stress caused by the fashion industry to keep up with impossible deadlines and expectations. The show theatrically portrays the speed at which the industry moves and expects everyone to keep up with. Countless trends pass by monthly – even weekly – and everyone tries to participate in fear of being left behind.

Labeled as the “disaster shows”, the unconventional creativity behind the trilogy of shows differentiates AVAVAV from other luxury brands. It became known as a brand trying to establish a conscious mindset about the money and time dedicated to fashion.

Creating a humorous and meaningful stage, the AVAVAV’s 2024 SS show teases at the familiar phrase: the show must go on.

*SS: spring and summer

*FW: fall and winter